Exploring Family-Friendly Lisbon
Highlights from my favorite capital city and a top destination with children
My family lived in Lisbon for 6 weeks in March-April 2023. It was a very formative experience that led us to live in the city of Chicago when we returned to the U.S.
When we arrived in Lisbon, it was a breath of fresh air. Staying in the Belém area, it was a more residential feel instead of a busy city center. There are two botanic gardens and countless parks within the immediate vicinity. The croissants were seriously underwhelming, but the pastel de nata and other delicious pastries make up the difference.
As we walked through the streets this week, I couldn't help but marvel at the colorful buildings, charming cobblestones, and the bits of nature that popped through everywhere - mossy trees, grass between the gaps in the cobblestones, and citrus trees hanging over courtyard walls. We stopped at a local café and ordered our morning pastel de nata. I savored the sweet custard filling and felt a sense of contentment surrounded by elderly Portuguese women cooing at my toddler.
We continued exploring with a ferry ride across the Tagus River and my toddler got to check another form of transit off her list.
I was amazed at the welcoming and friendly nature of the Portuguese and feel grateful for the smiles and waves. Old women practically forced us to go in front of them in line at the grocery store, pointing at my daughter, in a high-form reverence to parents and children.
My daughter moved beyond terrorizing pigeons and was ecstatic to see peacocks. We can were able to open the windows of our rental and hear them screaming (in the most delightful way). She insisted on opening the window at bedtime to tell the peacocks goodnight.
We experienced the hills in all their glory in the capital city of Portugal. When our hamstrings started burning, we hopped on the iconic yellow tram cars to explore the city and surrounding neighborhoods. Our favorite weekend destination was Cascais; a 30-minute train from Lisbon and serves up relaxing beach vibes to balance out the city experience. Their motto is "stay for a day or a lifetime" — it was hard to resist.
Things to Do Around Lisbon
Walk the hills. Because at the top of every one is a big payoff. Cafés, views, parks and shopping are all to be found at the top of the next hill. If you just can't do it, there are also trams, buses and even rickshaws to help.
Portuguese School of Equestrian Art. Not being raised a horse person, the Portuguese Equestrian school, plus all of the military horses casually strolling around the neighborhood, was very novel. Our toddler loved touring the stables and the training exercises were fascinating. The trainers were also super friendly and knowledgeable.
Tour a Botanical Garden. Lisbon has the most green space I've ever experienced in a city. Take advantage of the low admissions and enjoy the serenity of the botanical gardens in Lisbon. Jardín Botánico de Ajuda and Tropical Botanical Garden, both in the Belém neighborhood, were standouts.
Visit the Lisbon Zoo. The Lisbon Zoo is the best! The animal habitats are expansive and feel very old-world. There are also many dining options, including a very cute picnic table and play area.
Visit Oceanário de Lisboa. Not to be outdone, the Aquarium is high on every local's list of recommended sights.
Play at Parque Eduardo VII. Not only does this park have a beautiful view of the city, but it also has a wonderful playground and cafe. Portugal has parenting figured out with coffee, wine and snacks never being far from the children's play area. Their cappuccino was the best I had in Lisbon.
Explore Alvito Recreational Park. Just north of the city you will find a massive National Forest, Parque Florestal de Monstanto. It includes one of our favorite parks tucked into the dense wooded area.
Book a Boat Tour. Cross under the Arco da Rua Augusta to the Ferry Terminal, Terreiro do Paço. From here you can book with any number of boat tour companies and enjoy a tour of the Tagus River.
Visit Parque Marechal Carmona. Back in Cascais, you can visit this unique park that is home to many chickens, roosters and ducks.
Shop at an Indie Bookshop. To get your reading fix, visit this bookstore where they have mastered organized chaos. Located inside the walls Fortress Nossa Senhora da Luz de Cascais, the numerous stacks of English books lining every surface will consume you and invite lots of leisurely browsing.
See Boca do Inferno. These dramatic cliffs on the western side of Cascais catch the changing tide that will lock you into a calm trance, plus provide the opportunity for some excellent photos.
Places to Eat & Drink around Lisbon
Amélia Lisboa. When I walked in five minutes after opening time on a Saturday morning, did I get a funny look from the wait staff? Sure did. The Portuguese are not what I would call early risers. But brunch at Amélia was worth getting out of bed for and, you guessed it, walking up a few very long hills.
Restaurante Tasca da Memória. Located in the Wine & Books Hotel you will find an excellent meal awaits. Try anything with octopus on the menu.
Time Out Market. I had several of my favorite meals from the stalls in this Food Hall. Connected to a more traditional market you get the opportunity to experience classic foods as well as new takes on Portuguese and fusion cuisine.
Terraço Editorial. For a great rooftop experience. You'll have to look carefully for the entrance to this place. There is no sign out front, but only a menu and at the front of a department store with an elevator up to the top for views and an excellent meal.
Manteigaria. Skip the line down the street at Pastéis de Belém and instead go to this cafe for your pastéis de nata, the famous Portuguese pastry. The locals will tell you their custard is the best!
Nunes Real Marisqueira. Sit on the patio and enjoy the fresh seafood.
Quiosque Alegria. Our favorite park kiosk in Lisbon, across from the bright, Hotel Alegria. You'll find this small plaza to be a little oasis with large trees, a fountain and a small playground.
Esplanada do Visconde. The best park kiosk in Cascais for snacks and drinks. There are frequent pop-up markets in this park and the carousel offers lots of fun for your little ones.
